Mt Russell, Fishhook Arete 2020

On July 19, 2020, Jacob and I attempted the Fishhook Arete on Mount Russell (5.9 at 14,026 ft), but we bailed at about halfway due to slowness, difficulty, and ultimately weather. Our plan was to do it car to car in a day from Whitney Portal, which meant a roughly four-mile approach with 5700 feet elevation gain. Then a race across the East Ridge and back down to the portal for a predicted 18-hour day round trip. In the photo above, we were headed to just past the orange-lit peaks in the center distance, which include Mount Whitney.

Weather started out great, and we made good progress. Russell is just northwest of Mount Whitney, the tallest peak in the distance, above.

Jacob on the approach, with Whitney in the background.

Mount Whitney

Mount Russell in the background.

From an older photo taken from Whitney summit, Fishhook Arete on the right.

Nearing the base, whith the Fishhook Arete running from left to right up to the summit.

At the top of the first pitch--a steep, stiff 5.9 at 13,000 feet that set the stage for what became a surprisingly difficult climb. Many climbs in the Sierra may have a difficult move or two per pitch, with most of the moves being easier. But we found that many pitches on this route had a majority of their moves at the highest level of difficulty of the whole pitch. This first pitch, for example, felt steep, sustained, and awkward, with insecure flaring jams, and many 5.9 moves.

The next several pitches were no exception. What looked easy from below turned out to be awkward and strenuous, particularly since we had run up from 8,000 to 13,500 feet in a matter of hours--and had come from sea level the day before. Soon after this photo, we began to hear thunder, clouds started rolling in from the north, and snow pellets started falling. About halfway up the climb, we came to an easy rappel down off the east side of the arete. Moving more slowly than anticipated due to difficulty, we had fallen far behind schedule and our 18-hour day was looking even longer. Given the risk of lightning, we did not relish staying high for hours on the ridge during our descent. So, when an easy retreat presented itself, we took it, and we'll just have to return another time!

Storm clouds rolling in above Mount Whitney.